Kuari Pass Trek: Exploring the Himalayan Winters

In order to unclog myself from all the negativity, I set up on a quest to find the ethereal ambience of life I have been looking for. That’s when I got to go on a trek to the Himalayas and every time I go there, something inside me changes. This is the tale of the Kuari Pass Trek.

Kuari Pass is an easy-moderate trek when done over four days, excluding two days travel. If you’re thinking of a winter adventure in the Himalayas, the Kuari Pass Trek is the perfect choice. Known as one of the best winter treks in India, this trek is a beautiful journey through snow-covered forests, stunning mountain views, and a chance to witness the mighty Nanda Devi peak up close. Located in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand, the winter Kuari Pass Trek is ideal for both beginners and experienced trekkers, and a go-to destination for anyone looking to explore the winter trek in Uttarakhand.

It is about 27 kms with roughly 8000 feet of elevation gain. Kuari Pass trek starts at around 4000 feet in Pipalkoti and reaches a max elevation of 12750 feet.

The trek’s moderate difficulty level makes it accessible for both seasoned trekkers and fit beginners. The journey typically takes 6-7 days, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the natural beauty and tranquillity of the region. Along the way, you’ll encounter traditional villages, interact with local communities, and enjoy the environment away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

The trees are covered with snow, not like all the others that we usually see. There is a yellow and green glimpse of the tree's leaves covered with snow. When you look up, you will still find those big trees and not the sky. And in between them, the sun peeks through the branches, a nature’s companion that follows you.

Even if you’ve experienced many treks, the snow-draped forest of Kuari Pass will still take your breath away. The landscape features golden oaks and tall pine trees, leading to a dreamy campsite situated within the forest. After a day of trekking through this winter wonderland, resting at a camp surrounded by such beauty is truly a perfect way to end the adventure.

Thursday - 19th Dec 2024: Dehradun 2700 feet

We flew from Hyderabad on a usual early morning flight to Dehradun. The Dehradun airport is small yet beautiful airport covered with Sanskrit verses all over. The Acclimatization with the cold weather started here. 

Nothing like starting an adventurous trip from the holy banks of Maa ganga. We arrived at Haridwar directly from the airport. Holy dip followed. Water was more than ice cold. The whole body burnt as if it was washing off my existential life sins. Post that we attended the Ganga Aarathi in the evening at Haridwar and headed to our hotel in Rishikesh(1120 feet). This city looks like the center hub of all hustle bustle. The journey to the base camp started at 6am from just outside the Hotel.

Friday - 20th Dec 2024 - Rishikesh to Pipalkoti (Base Camp)

• Altitude: 1,350m/4,400ft.
• Drive Distance: 220 km | 9-10 hours.

We started by road to Pipalkoti base camp. It was a long arduous journey covering the three Prayags(Karna Prayag, Rudra Prayag and Deva Prayag). The Prayags are basically junctions where river Ganga meets another river. Beautiful valleys and outstanding views of the Uttarakhand ranges. 

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We had breakfast and lunch on the way. Welcome to a wide variety of potatoes on the menu. Food was generally delicious. We reached the base camp around 5pm in the evening.  

After a thorough health check at the local primary health center in Pipalkoti. Finally the trek awaits the next morning.

Saturday - 21st Dec 2024 - Day-1: Pipalkoti – Gulling Top Camp site

• Altitude:
• Tugasi village: 2450m/ 8000 ft.
• Gulling Top: 2,850 m/ 9,400 ft.
• Drive Distance (Pipalkoti-Tugasi): 50 km | 2-3 hrs.
• Trek Distance: 3km | 2-3 hrs.

The day started early. A quick drive to Tugasi village and the trek begins here. 

We are finally on our feet with the unique itinerary, where the adventure truly takes flight. As you start your steady ascent, the trail gently weaves through ancient oaks, their branches heavy with snow. It’s here that you first catch sight of the snow-covered paths stretching ahead, with expansive mountain views peeking through the treetops. The soft crunch of snow under your boots set the tone for the days to come. Its a steep climb through usual rocky terrain, villages, people, lifestyle - all well laid while we walk through watching and absorbing all of it. The views were breathtaking as we could see different mountains (Mt. Dronagiri, Mt. Nanda Devi, Mt. Hanuman Koti, Haathi Parbat & Ghoda Parbat, Mt. Bugiyal Koti, Mt. Pangar Chulla)

Inside the Tent at Gulling Top

The stay at gulling top was pretty normal other than the quick taste of Himalayan winters. The temperatures were low yet manageable. Still very dusty environment, quick introductions with fellow trekkers gave way to singing, Antakshari and dumb charades. As we were served Tea, Trek lead (Pavan) introduced the Oximeter tests to ensure everyone was ready for the most severe temperatures of next day. The secret of better oxygen levels was to drink enough water through the day.

The Acclimatization trek for an hour was obviously on. As the evening dawned, the sunlight gave way very early(330pm) to chilled environment and it all felt that the trek has arrived. What was in store in the night and the next day morning forms the crux of what a winter trek would feel like and the challenges that it poses. 

Sunday - 22nd Dec 2024 - Day-2: Gulling Top to Khullar Top Camp Site

• Altitude: 3,650m (12,200ft).
• Trek Distance:5 km | 4-5 hours.

The start was right after breakfast, a quick briefing and the trek lead suggested to all trekkers to be ready for the coldest stretch at Khullar top. And this camp site didn't fail us. The chill was hurting the bones. The temperatures were between -12 to -20 C. It was first times for a lot of us and posed the major challenge of this entire trek. Very few could sleep through the night. Early starts the next day were necessary as we had to summit. The participants were usually very enthusiastic, cooperative and energetic to say the least. Fun was laid all around. Sarcasm, jokes were in the air. Of course, hot food, and beverages were part of the lighter environment around. Views were breathtaking to say the least.

Monday - 23rd Dec 2024 - Day- 3: Khullara Top Camp to Kuari pass (SUMMIT) and descent via Talli Forest Camp Site

• Altitude:
• Kuari Pass: 3,900m (12,750 ft).
• Talli Forest camp: 3,350m (11,100 ft).
• Trek Distance: 10-11 km | 8-9 hours.

We started yet another early day post breakfast. Temperatures were bone chilling yet the excitement of summit was in the air. The path was all steep, laid with brief excerpts of snow. However, the chill in the air was most challenging as you kept losing breath.  As we climbed higher, the trail opens up to Kuari Pass, a vantage point that feels like the roof of the world. From here, the vast expanse of the Himalayas unfolds in all directions, with the peaks standing tall. It’s a perfect spot to rest, and marvel at the majesty that surrounds you, a view that makes every step of the climb worthwhile. Trek up to summit was a good 2 and half hours.

After savoring the enjoyment of more than an early summit we started our descent into Talli Forest camp site. To our luck, it started to snow during our descent and we reached the camp, the intensity of snow fall was incremental. A true magical place was uncovered where every step feels like wandering into a kingdom of snow. Towering pine and oak trees rise around you, their trunks dusted with snow, while sunlight occasionally filters through the dense canopy, casting patterns on the ground. The quiet here is profound, broken only by the sounds of your footsteps and the occasional chirp of a hidden bird. It's a place that invites you to pause, take a deep breath, and truly feel the peace of the wilderness.

It snowed right through the night. We were instructed to keep shaking the snow off our tents as it had the risk of collapsing if too much snow accumulated on the top. We somehow ran through the night with doubts of whether we would be able to descent the next day.

Tuesday - 24th Dec 2024 - Day- 4: Tali forest camp via Gulling Top (9400 ft) and Tugasi top (8000 ft) to Pipalkoti

• Altitude:
• Gulling Top: 2,865m (9400 feet)
• Tugasi Top: 2,440m (8000 feet)
• Trek Distance: 9 km | 6-7 hours
• Drive Distance from Tugasi village to Pipalkoti(4000 feet): 45 km | 1 hour 30 min.

Extreme snow fall - almost 2 feet high. Our doubts of descent were quickly met with our trek lead waking us all up by 230 am. Trying to shake off accumulated snow from all our tents. Assessing if the descent was to start off as early as 3am.  A sigh of relief came across trekkers that descent would start at normal time but due to extreme snow conditions the trek path didn’t allow us to return via Gorson Bugyal or Auli. We were forced to retrace our path back through Tugasi. Another challenge was that mules wouldn't be available to carry off loaded back packs due to heavy snow conditions. Fortunately mules appeared to everybody's relief right on time. The descent started but views were breathtaking. White snow everywhere, tripping, falling and laughing the entire stretch.

With the Trek Lead - Pavan Sir at Tali Forest Camp Site

With Trek Assist - Anshul

Winter is a quieter season compared to the peak trekking months and the Kuari Pass trek stands out as one of India’s top winter treks. The trek is less crowded during this season. This means trekkers can enjoy a more serene and solitary experience, away from the usual crowds. As winter sets in, the landscape is blanketed in fresh snow, transforming the trail into a serene white land. You’ll trek through snow-covered forests, where every turn shows views of the Himalayan giants. The trek’s moderate difficulty level makes it accessible, yet it still packs the thrill of a high-altitude adventure. Whether it’s the joy of walking on fresh snow, camping under a canopy of stars, or soaking in panoramic views of peaks like Nanda Devi and Dronagiri. Kuari Pass delivers a memorable winter experience and hence often called the “Best Winter Trek in India” that’s hard to beat.

Indra Lodge, Pipalkoti

We reached Pipalkoti a little early around 2pm. We had our lunch and headed to nearby market for some snacks. The temperatures were still unbearable. Had our certificate distribution and closure briefing from the trek lead. One of the finest update at this time was that this was the first time in a trek, all 22 participants had completed the trek. And on all days our trekkers had culminated treks before time, which was well appreciated by the lead. This spoke volumes about the discipline, fitness levels and commitment of all the trekkers to have summitted together and descended well before time limits provided.

We concluded the evening with different events, incidents during the trek. This also included a lot of stories from Ashish/Aradhya on their travel/trek adventures. All in all a wonderful fun filled conclusion with the trekkers at the base camp.

Wednesday - 25th Dec 2024: Pipalkoti To Rishikesh

• Drive Distance: 220 km | approx. 9 hours

We decided to retire to bed early, however, the chill through the night was still uncomfortable. Yet some sound sleep, hopefully the contentment of a successful summit showed up. We started our road journey back to Rishikesh at 630 am. On the way stopped for breakfast and reached Rishikesh by 2pm. We had lunch at a new joint and quickly decided to go for Ganga Aarthi at Triveni Ghat. It was another riveting experience. The objective was to thank Maa Ganga for all the good of the past 5 days. The walk post the Aarthi through Janaki Jhula, Markets of Rishikesh(some shopping of course), Paramarth Ghat, Chotiwala restaurant and Ram Jhula left me with the taste of local street food, joints, handlooms and generally the air of sacredness/faith/rituals that's all around. I will hold this experience in my life forever. 

Janaki Jhula in the background

Ram Jhula

Thursday - 26th Dec 2024: Hrishikesh Adventures Galore 

The intent was to fathom the adventure city of Hrishikesh. We decided to hit another mythological place Neelkanth (where Lord Shiva consumed the poison (Halahala) that emerged from the churning of the ocean by the Devas (gods) and Asuras(demons). It is believed that Lord Shiva's throat turned blue (Neelkanth) due to the poison and hence the name of the temple. It was a road journey at 530am and we reached the temple through mist and darkness but the silence was demeaning of the stature of this temple. I for one still feel that mythical places in India need better development/infrastructure and better tourism as well. This banter for some other day.

The land of rafting and we couldn't keep ourselves away. The few body niggles from the trek plus the anxiety of the rafting adventure was enough to keep the excitement in the air. We travelled up to shivpuri for the start of the 16 km ganga river rafting that culminated at Lakshman Jhula. As we embarked on the dinghy, the anxiety built, By time we reached our first rapid, the scare/anxiety was at its peak. Once we crossed the first rapid, the nerves settled, the confidence was on a high. The raft instructor made us do some fun activities like standing in the Raft and also a dip in the Ganges - holding onto ropes. All in all another new/exhilarating experience but one that will be entrenched in my mind for my entire life. Another item ticked on my bucket list.

We spent the rest of the afternoon at a Cafe eating to our hearts delight. Good food, nice music and fun never stopped. We finally left for the airport at about 3pm. 

Leaving all of you with a lasting thought as I returned back to Hyderabad on 26th December evening by 1015pm.

“We chase extraordinary moments instead of being grateful for ordinary moments until hard shit happens. And then in the face of really hard stuff — illness, death, loss — the only thing we’re begging for is a normal moment.” - Brene Brown

Here’s to 2025 being a year where we stay grateful for normal “ordinary” moments and do not take for granted the extraordinary privilege that is life.